while the focus of this guide is on the broader appeal of osaka, it's worth noting that japan took a significant step towards inclusivity by introducing a partnership certificate system for same-sex couples, with osaka being the second city to do so.
this signifies a growing recognition, even if societal acceptance is still evolving. as a western tourist, the chances of encountering overt judgment are minimal, allowing for a more relaxed exploration of the city.
osaka presents itself as a city where individuality is embraced.
we found it to be a place where one can explore freely, hand-in-hand, without the apprehension of unwelcome scrutiny. the city offers an incredibly diverse range of experiences, from the energetic pulse of its shopping districts to the tranquil beauty of its gardens and the historical weight of its temples.
our eagerness to immerse ourselves in all osaka had to offer was boundless.
dotonbori: a dazzling introduction to osaka's energy
our initial foray into the city led us to the iconic dotonbori district. this area is an explosion of vibrant neon lights, bustling crowds, and an irresistible array of street food that promised a feast for the senses.
wandering along the dotonbori river, we enjoyed browsing the eclectic shops and sampling an abundance of delicious Japanese culinary creations.
no visit to dotonbori would be complete without a ride on the famous ebisu tower ferris wheel, situated in front of the don quijote store.
ascending this unique vertical ferris wheel, we waved to the people below. the panoramic view from the top was breathtaking, extending as far as the eye could see.
be prepared for a truly immersive sensory experience; dotonbori is a whirlwind of sights and sounds that can be overwhelming.
it's advisable to keep an eye on your comfort levels amidst the sheer variety, such as the fifty different types of Japanese candy. however, amidst this stimulating environment, a visit to a local shrine offers a contrasting sense of peace.
namba yasaka shrine: a unique spiritual encounter
high on our list was the namba yasaka shrine in osaka, offering a distinct and memorable experience.
dedicated to susanoo-no-mikoto, the shinto god of the sea, its most striking feature is a colossal lion head, standing an impressive 12 meters tall, serving as its centerpiece. the shrine itself provides a serene sanctuary amidst the urban landscape.
namba parks: an urban oasis of tranquility
as we listened to the city's hum and watched birds flit between the trees, we sought a peaceful respite from the urban bustle.
namba parks, a remarkable green space built atop namba station, offered just that. this tranquil haven boasts terraced gardens, comfortable seating areas, various shops, and even a rooftop farm, providing a refreshing escape.
it was the ideal spot to unwind amidst the greenery, a perfect counterpoint to the city's energetic pace.
for those interested in our journey, our experiences and insights have been compiled in a book, available for purchase online or in bookstores across germany, austria, and switzerland.
osaka castle: a journey through history and illuminated beauty
as the sun began its descent, painting the sky with a vibrant spectrum of colors, we made our way to osaka castle.
this majestic landmark has stood proudly since the 16th century. we strolled through nishinomaru garden, observing the joggers and the city beginning to wind down. the castle, with its gleaming white facade and intricately detailed green roof tiles, is a truly awe-inspiring sight, a testament to the architectural prowess of its creators.
while the castle is impressive during the day, its nighttime appearance is even more magical.
illuminated by a soft golden light, it evokes a sense of stepping back in time. we could easily imagine samurai warriors patrolling the ramparts, their swords catching the moonlight, and courtly ladies gracefully moving through the gardens, their kimonos whispering in the breeze.
it was a moment for quiet reflection and shared intimacy.
traditional arts and modern entertainment
kabuki performance: a captivating display of Japanese artistry
to conclude our day of exploration, we were invited to experience a traditional kabuki performance at the sumiyoshi taisha shrine, organized by the shochikuza theatre.
we were captivated by the elaborate costumes, striking makeup, and stylized movements of the performers. recalling a similar experience in kyoto ten years prior, this was once again an unforgettable immersion into Japanese passion, artistic expression, and ancient traditions.
the detailed makeup, stunning attire, and evocative music combined to create a truly mesmerizing performance.
universal studios japan: magical worlds and thrilling adventures
our visit to universal studios japan ten years ago coincided with the grand opening of the wizarding world of harry potter.
stepping into hogsmeade for the first time was a magical experience, with the impressive hogwarts castle and the charming details in the shop windows leaving a lasting impression. universal studios japan has since become renowned for its special events and unique entertainment offerings.
to celebrate the anniversary of the wizarding world of harry potter, they introduced "meeting the magical creatures of hogsmeade," an instant hit.
we were fortunate enough to encounter and even interact with a niffler, a pygmypuff, and a baby dragon, which was an absolute delight.
the park also features the jurassic park area, home to the exhilarating "the flying dinosaur" rollercoaster, an experience many choose to undertake just once due to its intensity.
you can also still enjoy the classic JAWS ride, a rarity as it has been removed from other universal parks. this campy boat ride, especially when experienced in Japanese with the surrounding excited screams, adds a layer of fun.
universal studios japan is also home to the world's first super nintendo world, complete with the unique donkey kong mine cart madness coaster.
for those planning a visit, our friend TDRexplorer has created a comprehensive park guide covering everything from optimal visiting times and dining recommendations to attraction strategies and ticket purchasing. this guide proved invaluable in helping us discover the best vegetarian-friendly dining options within the park.
the lost world restaurant offers a dedicated vegan menu and delicious vegan side dishes, while the three broomsticks in the wizarding world of harry potter boasts a full vegan menu, including vegan butterbeer!
osaka pride: celebrating community and identity
our visit to osaka coincided with halloween, and universal studios japan was alive with extra spooky festivities.
a significant reason for planning our trip at that time was to experience osaka pride. alongside our friends from IGLTA and many local residents, we participated in this memorable event, our first pride celebration in an asian country.
the pride parade was a heartwarming spectacle, filled with music, dancing, joyful faces, and a sea of rainbow flags.
the event was well-organized, guiding participants along a designated route. despite the rapid flow of traffic on the adjacent roads, the atmosphere felt safe and celebratory. it was profoundly moving to be surrounded by so many Japanese individuals openly expressing their pride in rainbow attire.
the energy of the parade was infectious, with onlookers emerging from shops to capture photos and offer supportive waves.
our presence was about visibility and celebrating unique identities, contributing to a positive and affirming atmosphere. the parade typically occurs in late october; checking the official website for the most current dates and route information is recommended.
the parade concluded back at ogimachi park for the post-parade festival.
here, we danced, sang, and connected with fellow community members, experiencing the true spirit of pride. browsing colorful stalls and engaging with friendly volunteers added to the vibrant atmosphere.
osaka's gay nightlife: vibrant districts and welcoming spaces
no exploration of osaka is complete without experiencing its thriving gay nightlife.
the energy in the dedicated districts is palpable, with neon lights beckoning visitors into a world of enjoyment and liberation.
frenz frenzy, a small but popular queer bar, is a highlight, pulsing with energy and color. we spent the night dancing to contemporary pop music, mingling with both locals and fellow travelers.
another recommended spot for gay couples in osaka is eagle osaka, joining a global network of eagle bars known for their welcoming atmosphere.
we enthusiastically sang along to our favorite songs, creating a joyful and uninhibited atmosphere. there's also the possibility of connecting with locals who might introduce you to smaller, more intimate gay bars, often frequented by locals after work.
these hidden gems are usually not widely advertised to tourists.
if you're walking along mido-suji, you'll directly cross through a prime spot in dotonbori, offering excellent vantage points.
culinary delights and unique experiences
cat café cat tail: an animal-lover's paradise
osaka boasts several cat cafés, but cat café cat tail comes highly recommended.
unlike some cafés where cats are primarily asleep, the staff here actively encourage interaction. they provide special soft blankets that attract the cats, inviting them for cuddles on your lap. the cost for an hour, including a beverage, is around ¥1,200, making it a delightful and affordable experience.
osaka castle grounds and surrounding areas
osaka castle is easily accessible for a visit of an hour or two.
witnessing the golden embellishments shimmer at sunset is particularly recommended. the castle grounds offer beautiful walking paths, with a less-trafficked trail behind the structure providing excellent views.
landmark square, adjacent to the castle, houses several restaurants and shops offering souvenirs.
we found the souvenir prices here to be the most competitive in all of japan. blue birds rooftop terrace, located on top of landmark square, is a pleasant barbecue restaurant, best enjoyed during the summer months.
the osaka castle museum, located within the castle itself, charges ¥600 for entry.
the miniature architectural models of the castle grounds are particularly noteworthy.
sumiyoshi taisha shrine: a peaceful retreat
the sumiyoshi taisha shrine is undoubtedly one of the most tranquil spots in osaka. its serene beauty, coupled with the minimal presence of tourists during our visit, made it a particularly enjoyable experience.
observing the local customs, such as the offering rituals - a bow, two claps, and another bow - provides insight into their spiritual practices.
a visit to sumiyoshi taisha can easily become a half-day excursion, which might explain the fewer crowds. reaching the shrine requires a bit of travel time, and it's important to note that semi-express trains do not stop at the local shrine metro station.
the shrine itself is free to enter, and accessible via metro or tramway.
osaka's gay districts and nightlife specifics
osaka's gay bars are concentrated in the doyama-cho district, near the umeda area. these venues tend to be smaller and more intimate.
during our visit to the gay area, it appeared somewhat quiet, suggesting that visiting at a different time might yield a more active scene. popular local gay bars include frenz frenzy, rainbow heaven, and explosion gay bar. frenz frenzy gained notoriety when lady gaga once performed karaoke there.
explosion gay bar is also well-known, though experiences can vary.
grand slam is a popular osaka gay club, appreciated for its friendly staff and vibrant interior. it is typically busiest on fridays and saturdays and is closed on mondays. village, another establishment identified as a gay bar, appeared empty during our visit.
dining recommendations and local flavors
recommending specific restaurants in osaka can be challenging, as many are not listed on google maps and are small, locally-owned establishments often with non-English names.
these hidden culinary gems are frequently found in bustling market streets, particularly in the shinsaibashi neighborhood.
it's generally advisable to explore authentic Japanese cuisine rather than American or Italian themed restaurants when in osaka.
for those seeking a break from traditional Japanese dishes, korean bibimbap is a delicious alternative.
beard papa is a highly recommended spot for desserts, with branches in namba, shinsaibashi, and umeda. their Japanese inari, particularly those found at family mart, are a must-try.
takoyaki, a traditional Kansai region specialty, is another essential osaka culinary experience. these savory, creamy balls of fried batter are widely available.
practical travel tips for osaka
luggage storage and public transport
luggage lockers are readily available in most metro stations, offering a convenient solution for travelers.
the largest lockers, capable of fitting more than two backpacks, cost ¥700 per day. it's important to retrieve your belongings promptly.
osaka's metro system can be complex. navigating it requires understanding the distinction between osaka metro and jr lines, as tickets are not interchangeable.
all ticket purchases are cash-only, so ensure you have sufficient cash before heading to the station. special tickets are required for airport transfers via express trains.
transfer tickets can be purchased at some machines, but not all. when in doubt, it's best to buy a ticket to your connecting station.
be mindful of express trains, as they may bypass your intended stop.
connectivity and currency
reliable wi-fi is essential, though not all starbucks locations offer it. it's advisable to confirm wi-fi availability beforehand.
correct pronunciation of osaka is crucial; the emphasis is on the first syllable: oh-sah-kah.
be aware that atm machines at osaka airport can be unreliable with international cards. some machines only dispense cash in multiples of ¥10,000, so look for those allowing smaller withdrawals, ideally a minimum of ¥1,000.
despite osaka being a major international city, many establishments still operate on a cash-only basis.
it can be unpredictable whether a restaurant will accept card payments. personal experience indicated that visa cards sometimes did not work, necessitating the use of cash.